There’s a certain satisfaction in maintaining your own vehicle. An oil change is the classic “first job” for DIY car maintenance, simple in theory, and a great way to learn what’s happening under your hood.
But doing a DIY oil change in Halifax comes with a twist: winter road salt and coastal moisture. That combo accelerates corrosion and can turn a 30-minute job into a seized drain plug, a stripped oil pan thread, or an undertray that fights you the whole way.
If you’re ready to tackle it properly, here’s a step-by-step guide plus the “Halifax hazards”, that separate a smooth job from an expensive headache.
The Halifax Factor: Rust Makes The Drain Plug The Boss Fight!
Before you buy oil, do this quick check:
- Confirm you can open the oil fill cap (top of the engine).
- Confirm you can loosen the drain plug (bottom of the oil pan).
If the drain plug feels like it needs “all your strength,” STOP!
On many vehicles, the plug threads into an aluminum pan, and forcing it can strip threads or crack the pan meaning you can’t safely drive it afterward. In Halifax, this happens more often because corrosion effectively “locks” the threads together.
Dial-A-Tire Pro tip: Use a 6-point socket (not a 12-point) for better grip on stubborn or rusty drain plugs.
What You’ll Need (Don’t Start Until You Have It All)
- Correct oil: viscosity (e.g., 0W-20, 5W-30) and required spec/approval per your owner’s manual
- New oil filter (correct part number). Check reviews online to ensure you are buying a quality filter – no, they are NOT all the same
- Drain plug crush washer (if your vehicle uses one many do)
- Socket/wrench set (correct drain plug size)
- Oil filter wrench (Not always required – but very helpful if you have it handy!)
- Drain pan (large enough for your engine capacity)
- Non-slip Ramps or Jack + Jack stands (NEVER EVER rely on a jack alone!).
- Funnel, shop towels, gloves, safety glasses
- Optional but ideal: torque wrench (to avoid over-tightening). If you are a DIYer, a torque wrench is a great addition to your tool chest.
Step-By-Step: Diy Oil Changes Done Right
Doing your own oil change isn’t hard, but doing it right matters. Follow this step-by-step guide to avoid common mistakes, protect your engine, and keep things clean, safe, and drama-free from start to finish.
1) Warm The Oil (Briefly)
If your engine is cold, run the engine for 2–3 minutes. Warm oil drains faster and carries more suspended contaminants out with it. If your engine is HOT after a long drive, letting it cool down a little bit is a good idea – ensures you can change oil without it being so hot that you risk burns.
2) Park Level And Secure The Vehicle
Flat ground, parking brake on, wheels chocked. If using jack stands, place them on correct lift points and give the vehicle a gentle shake test before going underneath.
3) Remove Any Undertray (Common On Newer Cars)
Many modern vehicles have splash shields that hide the oil pan and filter. Open carefully and use the correct fastener tool so you don’t strip plastic clips.
4) Drain The Old Oil
Position the pan carefully – oil may initially shoot outward in an arc. Crack the plug loose with a socket, then finish by hand (gloves on). Let it drain fully (5–10 minutes).
Dial-A-Tire Pro Tip: Inspect the drain plug: metal fuzz is normal in small amounts; chunks are not. If the plug uses a crush washer, replace it.
5) Remove The Filter (Avoid The “Double Gasket” Mistake)
Spin off the old filter. Now the critical check:
- Ensure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter.
If it’s stuck to the engine, removing it and installing a new filter on top of the old gasket can cause a sudden leak when the engine starts (yes, it’s as messy as it sounds – don’t ask us how we know!!).
Lightly oil the new filter gasket, then install the filter hand-tight (usually “contact + ¾ turn,” but follow the filter instructions).
6) Reinstall The Drain Plug Correctly
Clean the drain plug prior to re-install. Thread it in by hand first to prevent cross-threading. Tighten snugly ideally to the manufacturer torque spec (use the above mentioned torque wrench to confirm!)
7) Refill With The Correct Amount
Add about 90% of the specified capacity, then check the dipstick and top up to the correct level. Reinstall the fill cap.
8) Start The Engine And Check For Leaks
Start the engine and watch for the oil pressure light to go out. Let it idle 60 to 90 seconds. Shut it off, wait another minute, then re-check the dipstick and top up if needed. Look underneath for seepage at the drain plug and filter.
9) Reset The Maintenance Reminder
Many vehicles have an oil life monitor that should be reset after service check your manual for the correct procedure.
10) Clean-Up & Wash-Up Immediately
No two ways about it – Used oil is carcinogenic. Hence, it is vital to avoid prolonged skin contact – wear gloves and wash up ASAP!
“When To Stop” (And Let A Shop Handle It)
DIY oil changes are great until they aren’t. Stop and call a pro if:
- the drain plug is seized or rounding off
- you see oil pan threads look damaged
- you can’t access the filter without special tools
- the vehicle requires special procedures (some Euro models, tight undertrays, cartridge filter housings)
Used Oil Disposal In Halifax (Do It The Right Way)
Never pour used motor oil down a drain or onto the ground improper disposal is harmful and easily avoidable.
In Halifax, households can drop used motor oil at the HRM Household Special Waste Depot (20 Horseshoe Lake Drive, Halifax) and at scheduled mobile HSW events HRM lists accepted items and schedules online.
You can also use participating drop-off locations registered with the Atlantic Used Oil Management Association (UOMA) program in Nova Scotia.
Practical tip: Pour used oil into the empty oil jug using a funnel, seal it, and transport upright. DON’T leave products outside drop-off locations. Leave products with an employee.
Dial-A-Tire Pro-tip: DON’T mix oil with any other liquid (such as antifreeze).
Diy Vs Professional Oil Change In Halifax: What’s The Real Difference?
If you already own ramps, a drain pan, and tools, DIY can save some labour. But once you factor in your time, cleanup, disposal, rust risk, and the cost of quality oil and filters, the savings often shrink.
At Dial-A-Tire Halifax (locally owned & operated since 1994), we do oil changes in Halifax with trained technicians, the correct oil spec for your engine, quality filters, proper torque, maintenance reset, tire pressure check and a quick underhood/undercar inspection without you lying on cold pavement or worrying about a seized plug.
If you want to DIY, this guide will keep you safe and accurate. If you’d rather have it done quickly and cleanly, book online and we’ll take care of it.
We get oil changes – we’ve been doing it for over 30 years here at Dial-A-Tire Halifax!
FAQs
Q.1 How Often Should I Change My Oil In Halifax?
Ans: Follow your owner’s manual or oil life monitor. Many modern vehicles land in the 8,000–16,000 km range (or 6–12 months, whichever comes first). Most car manuals list two schedules: “Normal” and “Severe”. If you do lots of short trips, stop-and-go driving, or cold starts, follow the “Severe” schedule.
In our 30 years serving Halifax, the engines we see last the longest are the ones that get oil changes done religiously and on schedule, every time!
Q.2 Is Synthetic Oil Worth It For Halifax Winters?
Ans: 100% worth it! Synthetic flows better in cold temperatures, resists breakdown at high heat, and can offer better protection especially for newer engines or severe driving. Always use the viscosity and spec your vehicle requires.
Q.3 Can I Do A Diy Oil Change In Halifax?
Ans: Yes, if you have the right tools and safe lifting equipment. Halifax road salt can make drain plugs seize, so if the plug feels “stuck,” it’s smarter to stop before stripping threads or cracking the oil pan.
Q.4 What’s The Biggest Diy Mistake People Make?
Ans: The double gasket mistake where the old filter gasket sticks to the engine and the new filter is installed on top of it. That can cause a major leak.
Q.5 What Should An Oil Change Include?
Ans: At minimum: correct oil viscosity and quantity, new oil filter, leak check, and oil level verification after running. It’s also smart to reset the oil life monitor and do a quick check of fluids, tires, and visible leaks.
Q.6 How Long Does An Oil Change Take?
Ans: There are shops out there that promise “10 minutes” for oil change. In our experience, we have found this rushing leading to mistakes (like double-gasketing a filter) or technicians not having time to do general underbody checks while the vehicle is in the air. We know, as we regularly fix these mistakes on many customer cars!
An oil change is typically 20 minutes in a shop. DIY jobs can take longer especially if there’s an undertray, a tight filter, or a rusted drain plug.
Q.7 Where Do I Dispose Of Used Oil In Halifax?
Ans: Don’t dump it! Transfer used oil into a sealed container and take it to an approved drop-off location (HRM Household Special Waste Depot or participating used-oil collection sites).
Q.8 What Happens If I Skip Oil Changes?
Ans: Oil degrades and contaminates over time. Skipping service can lead to sludge, accelerated wear, overheating, and expensive engine damage often starting as minor issues that snowball.
